Longines: the story of a legendary brand, a blend of elegance and innovation.

Longines, with its iconic winged hourglass emblem, is not only one of the world's oldest Swiss watch brands: it is a living legend of watchmaking. The Longines story begins in a small valley in the heart of the Swiss Jura and has spanned nearly two centuries, intertwining traditional craftsmanship and a pioneering spirit. Since 1832, this brand has combined elegance, precision, and technical innovation, winning the hearts of Longines watch enthusiasts around the world. In this tale of past and present, we retrace the evolution, philosophy, and identity of Longines, an exciting journey that takes us from humble beginnings to international milestones and the iconic Longines models that have made history.

The Origins of Longines: A Vision in the Heart of Switzerland

The year is 1832. In the quiet village of Saint-Imier, an enterprising young man named Auguste Agassiz joins forces with other craftsmen to create a small watchmaking workshop. In that distant era, production was done by hand: each watchmaker made the components in his own home and then assembled them together. Agassiz, however, planted the seeds of something greater. His dedication to quality and precision quickly made his watches known far beyond the village borders. Agassiz's workshop prospered and laid the foundation for a family business destined to last.

In 1852, the helm passed to Auguste's nephew, Ernest Francillon. Ernest was young, brilliant, and above all, bold: he sensed that the future of watchmaking could no longer be based solely on fragmented production in the homes of various artisans. He then decided to break the mold and build a true factory, bringing together the best talents under one roof and introducing mechanized production methods. The move was revolutionary for the time, but Francillon firmly believed that only in this way could superior levels of quality and precision be guaranteed. And he was right.

The historic Longines factory in Saint-Imier, founded by Ernest Francillon in 1867, still stands today on the same site, a symbol of an uninterrupted industrial tradition. From the very beginning, Longines has combined craftsmanship with technical innovation, ahead of its time at a time when watchmaking was evolving from manual labor to mechanized production.

The birth of the Longines Factory and the name of the legend

In 1866, Ernest Francillon identified the perfect place to realize his industrial dream: a piece of land near Saint-Imier called “Les Longines” (in the local dialect, “the long meadows” ). The name Longines was born from that very place name. The following year, 1867, the new Longines factory opened its doors and began an adventure that was destined to last for generations. Incredibly, the original Longines factory still operates today in the same place as it did then. – a rare fact that testifies to the brand's attachment to its roots.

From the early years, Francillon understood the importance of protecting the identity of its watches in a growing market. Each timepiece leaving the factory is stamped with the name "LONGINES" and the winged hourglass symbol, as well as a unique serial number, to discourage imitations. This foresight led Longines to hold an enviable record: in 1880 the Longines name was registered as a trademark in Switzerland, and in 1889 Ernest Francillon also officially registered the winged hourglass logo. Since then, this distinctive symbol has accompanied every creation of the Maison. Today, Longines boasts the oldest registered trademark in the watchmaking industry, being the oldest emblem registered with the World Intellectual Property Organization still in use unchanged. This record symbolizes the continuity and authenticity of a brand that has spanned the decades without ever betraying itself.

Between precision and prestige: the first international goals

As early as the late 19th century, Longines began to make a name for itself on the international scene thanks to the extraordinary quality of its watches. In 1878, the Maison developed its first chronograph, a caliber 20H pocket watch movement, housed in a case engraved with the image of a jockey on horseback. It's no coincidence: Longines immediately showed a special affinity with the equestrian world. These chronographs with the winged hourglass soon became instruments appreciated by racecourse judges. As early as 1881, in horse races in the United States, judges used Longines chronometers to measure times with precision. The passion for chronographic precision, combined with the allure of equestrian competitions, laid the foundations for a relationship that would last for over a century: even today, the bond between Longines and equestrian sports is very strong, also celebrated by dedicated collections such as the “Equestrian” line.

The late 19th century saw Longines collect prizes and awards. In 1885, the company won a medal at the Antwerp Expo, and in the following years it collected ten international Grand Prix victories, establishing itself as a synonym for watchmaking excellence. Thanks also to a strategic partnership with the American importer Wittnauer, Longines timepieces conquered the overseas market by the late 19th century. By the early 1900s, Longines had become the most popular Swiss watch brand in the United States. , confirming its now global reputation. The small workshop in Saint-Imier has officially entered the Olympus of global watchmaking.

Longines and sports timing: from the racetrack to the Olympics

With the advent of the 20th century, Longines' technical innovation found fertile ground in sports timekeeping. The Swiss brand did more than just make watches: it wanted to measure performance, nailing the finish line of major sporting events. As early as 1912, Longines wrote history by introducing the first timing mechanism activated by an electrical contact. During a gymnastics competition in Basel, an electric wire stretched across the finish line automatically stopped the chronometer as the athlete crossed it—a groundbreaking innovation for the time, eliminating the human delay in recording the exact time. From that moment, Longines' reputation as a sports timekeeper took off.

In the following years, Longines became the official partner and timekeeper of countless international sports events and federations. His name appears in the major sporting events of the world: from the Olympic Games to motor racing, from equestrianism to tennis, up to air sports competitions. Whenever there's a record to be broken or a champion to be crowned in the nick of time, Longines is at the forefront with its precision instruments. This constant presence in sport—think of the snow-covered slopes of alpine skiing, the elegant platforms of artistic gymnastics, or the international archery fields—not only confirms the trust placed in the brand, but also strengthens its identity: reliability, precision, and performance. After all, when the glory of an Olympic gold medal or victory in a Grand Prix is ​​at stake, time must live up to the dream. And Longines makes sure it does.

It should be remembered that Longines has also played a leading role in iconic moments of the Olympics. For example, at the 1968 Olympic Games in Mexico City, working side by side with Omega, Longines introduced chronographs capable of displaying times to the nearest tenth of a second, setting a new standard of precision in Olympic timekeeping. Throughout the 20th century, the brand continued to develop cutting-edge devices for sports: photocells, high-frequency chronographs, and even automatic detection systems using photofinish and films (such as the famous Chronocinégines developed in 1954). All these innovations demonstrate how Longines has combined its chronometric tradition with a relentless desire to push technical boundaries.

Between Heaven and Earth: Longines and the Great Achievements of Aviation

In the 1920s and 1930s, Longines's horizons extended from the sports fields to the distant skies. It was the era of great aviation pioneers and daring explorations, an era in which human courage met the need for reliable instruments to navigate space and time. Longines timepieces became trusted companions of aviators and explorers, writing memorable chapters of adventure and innovation.

On May 20, 1927, the world watched with bated breath as Charles Lindbergh took off from New York in his single-engine Spirit of St. Louis to sail across the Atlantic alone. Among the few essential items on board was a Longines watch designed to time the crossing. After 33 hours and 30 minutes, Lindbergh touched down in Paris: it was the first solo non-stop transatlantic flight, and it was timed minute by minute by Longines. The feat reverberated around the world and established not only the aviator but also the brand that measured his time.

Lindbergh, grateful and driven by a practical spirit, shortly thereafter contacted the Saint-Imier watchmaker directly. He had a revolutionary idea: to create a watch that would aid pilots in astronomical navigation, allowing them to easily calculate longitude during flight. Thus was born a historic collaboration. Inspired by a recent Longines model developed with naval officer Philip Van Horn Weems, Lindbergh proposed adding an hour angle indicator to the dial and an engraved rotating bezel for calculation corrections. Longines took up the challenge and in 1931 created the legendary Hour Angle Watch – also known as the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch. This instrument, used in combination with a sextant and a nautical almanac, allowed pilots to determine their position with unprecedented precision. With its complex dial and calibrated rotating bezel, the Lindbergh Watch immediately became an icon: it is the GPS ante litteram of the golden age of aviation, and perfectly embodies the spirit of Longines, always ready to go “beyond” to support great enterprises.

The famous Longines “Hour Angle” developed with Charles Lindbergh in 1931 combined an internal rotating dial (designed by Commander Weems) with an engraved bezel for navigation calculations This watch, a true pilot's instrument, allowed aviators to orient themselves during transoceanic flights, symbolizing the combination of innovation and adventure that defines the Longines identity.

Not just Lindbergh: in those years, many other daring aviators chose Longines as a trusted ally in their pioneering flights. The Swiss brand, for example, accompanied the exploits of famous Italian pilots such as Francesco De Pinedo, Carlo Del Prete, and Arturo Ferrarin, protagonists of spectacular intercontinental flights in the second half of the 1920s. From the frozen expanses of the North Pole—where the explorers of the Duke of Abruzzi already had Longines chronometers with them in 1900— From the air routes between Europe and the Americas, the winged hourglass ideally flies alongside those who dare to venture beyond the horizon. Each successful expedition reinforces Longines' reputation as a robust, precise, and trustworthy brand in the most extreme conditions. It was during this period that the term "professional instruments" was coined for certain Longines watches: timepieces designed not only to tell the time, but to actively serve those who undertake exceptional feats.

Innovation and iconic models of the twentieth century

Throughout the 20th century, Longines continued to amaze the world with technical innovations and creations destined to become iconic Longines models. From the elegant 1920s to the quartz era and beyond, the brand met the challenges of time with a unique balance of tradition and avant-garde. Let's explore some of the milestones along this journey.

Pioneering chronographs and precision records

Longines' expertise in chronographs – already established with its 19th-century pocket watches – extended brilliantly to wristwatches. As early as 1913, the company launched its first wristwatch chronograph movement, the caliber 13.33Z. , pioneering a series of cutting-edge mechanisms. In the 1930s, at a time when timekeeping reached new levels of complexity, Longines introduced one of the most advanced movements of the period: the caliber 13ZN, intended for high-end wrist chronographs. This caliber, produced since 1936, is equipped with a then-revolutionary function, the flyback (or retour en vol ), which allows the chronograph to be instantly reset and restarted by pressing a single button. Longines officially patented the flyback mechanism in 1935 (with a patent granted in 1936), establishing itself as a world pioneer in the chronograph complication. From then on, pilots and technicians around the world had faster and more versatile tools for timing consecutive events – a significant advantage, especially in the aeronautical and sports fields.

At the same time, Longines tackled another crucial technical challenge: water resistance. In 1938, the Maison developed one of the very first waterproof wrist chronographs, featuring characteristic mushroom-shaped pushers designed to prevent water infiltration. This robust and innovative model demonstrates Longines's attention not only to the precision of the movement, but also to the watch's resistance to harsh conditions. The 1938 waterproof chronograph – patented that year – is a precursor to the sports diving watches that would become popular in the following decades. The focus on functionality without sacrificing elegance was already a hallmark of the brand.

In the 1950s and 1960s, Longines pushed the boundaries of precision even further. The fruit of extensive research in the Saint-Imier laboratories, an exceptional caliber was created in 1959 : the hand-wound Longines caliber 360. It is a high-frequency movement—it oscillates at a remarkable 36,000 vibrations per hour—created specifically to compete in chronometer competitions. The results were astonishing: the caliber 360 placed first and second at the Neuchâtel Observatory Precision Competition in 1961, breaking record after record. For the first time, a high-frequency wristwatch demonstrated its ability to outperform traditional chronometers in accuracy. Building on this success, in 1967, Longines launched a model for the public that brought this cutting-edge technology to the wrist: the Longines Ultra-Chron. It is a high-frequency mechanical watch – also at 36,000 vibrations per hour – so precise that it guarantees a maximum deviation of one minute per month (about 2 seconds per day) . The Ultra-Chron, presented with the slogan “more precise than a stopwatch,” offers a viable mechanical alternative to the rising tide of emerging electronic and quartz watches. Once again, Longines demonstrates its fighting spirit: faced with the challenge of technological change, it responds by pushing traditional engineering beyond its known limits.

The first collections and iconic timepieces of the 50s and 60s

While innovating on the technical front, Longines did not neglect the design and positioning of its models. In the mid-twentieth century, the watchmaking industry began to conceive the idea of ​​structured collections – a precursor to the modern segmentation of product lines. Longines was the first to embrace this approach: in 1954, it presented its first official line, the Longines Conquest, ushering in a new commercial strategy. The Conquest embodies the high-quality sport-elegant watch, designed for a dynamic yet style-conscious audience. Registered as a trademark on April 3, 1954. The Conquest collection laid the foundations for the future Longines catalogue, introducing a fictional name to identify an entire range of models with common characteristics (in this case, robustness, waterproofness and a precision automatic movement). The success of the Conquest encouraged Longines to continue on this path: a few years later, in 1957, the second historic line, the Longines Flagship, was born. With an evocative name – the “flagship” – the Flagship stands out for its elegant and classic lines. The case back of these watches features a relief medallion depicting a sailing ship, a symbol of leadership and maritime tradition. With the Flagship, Longines consolidated its position in the segment of elegant city watches, complementing the sporty vocation of the Conquest. Both the Conquest and Flagship names remain in the Longines catalog today – a tribute to the farsightedness of those decisions made in the 1950s.

Alongside these collections, Longines produced other iconic models in the 1960s that deserve to be remembered. One of these is the famous Longines Legend Diver. Introduced in the late 1950s during the scuba diving boom, this watch stood out for an unusual feature: instead of the classic external rotating bezel, it featured an internal rotating disc for calculating dive times, controlled via a second crown. This gave the watch a cleaner profile and, above all, protected the bezel from accidental impacts underwater. The “Legend Diver” – as it would be nicknamed many decades later – was water-resistant to 120 metres and combined functionality and elegant style, with its understated black dial and long luminescent hands. Today this model is considered a milestone among enthusiasts of vintage diving watches, so much so that Longines celebrated its glory by re-proposing it in the eponymous Heritage Legend Diver line starting in 2007.

Another significant example of Longines's mid-century inventiveness is the Longines Nonius, a chronograph introduced in the late 1960s whose chronograph seconds hand featured a small vernier scale, allowing for accurate readings to within a tenth of a second—an ingenious and very rare solution at the time. Models such as the Longines Ultronic (one of the first electronic tuning fork watches, launched in 1969 in collaboration with ESA) and the Longines LCD (1972, the brand's first digital timepiece) also testify to the brand's versatility, capable of exploring every frontier of timekeeping. In short, from the most classic mechanical watches to the most innovative electronic technologies, Longines in the 1960s was everywhere while maintaining its identity of elegance and quality intact.

The challenge of quartz and timeless elegance (1970s-1990s)

The late 1960s brought with it the so-called “quartz crisis,” a period in which the traditional Swiss industry had to contend with the advent of precise and affordable Japanese quartz watches. Many historic brands were downsized; Longines, however, faced the challenge head-on, adapting to the new scenario without denying its soul. Already in 1969, Longines, a member of the Swiss CEH consortium, participated in the creation of the Beta-21 movement, one of the first quartz calibers for wristwatches. But it didn't stop there: at the same time, it developed its own in-house quartz movement and launched the Longines Ultra-Quartz, presented at the Basel Fair in 1970 as the first quartz wristwatch entirely designed and produced by Longines. The Ultra-Quartz is more precise than any traditional mechanical watch and demonstrates the Maison's desire to master new technology, rather than passively submit to it. From an aesthetic point of view, Longines also experimented during those years, adopting bold, geometric designs typical of the 1970s, but always with a touch of sobriety compared to other brands: elegance remains the guiding principle.

A shining example of Longines' technical prowess during this period is the Longines Feuille d'Or (Italian for "Gold Leaf"). Presented in 1979, it is an extremely thin quartz watch, which sets a record: at 1.98 mm thick, it is the first timepiece in the world to be under 2 mm. This extraordinary creation—as delicate as gold leaf, in fact—demonstrates Longines' mastery of extreme miniaturization, combining technology and refinement. The Feuille d'Or, produced in a limited series, remains a technological curiosity and a symbol of the inventiveness of those turbulent years.

Towards the end of the 1980s, Longines joined the newly formed SMH group (now the Swatch Group ), joining other illustrious Swiss watchmakers to jointly address global challenges. In this context, in the 1990s, the brand rediscovered its classical roots even more forcefully and placed them at the heart of its product strategy. In 1992, Longines celebrated 160 years of history by inaugurating its Museum at its headquarters in Saint-Imier, where it carefully preserves thousands of watches, instruments, and archive documents—a treasure trove that testifies to the richness of its heritage. On the commercial front, 1992 also saw the launch of a collection destined to become a cornerstone of the Longines offering: the La Grande Classique de Longines line. These ultra-thin watches with their pure design and elegant cabochon lugs perfectly embody the brand's motto, "classic elegance and timeless refinement." The Grande Classique brought formal sobriety back into fashion and immediately became a worldwide success, especially among women, thanks to its ultra-slim profile and 1950s-inspired aesthetic.

The 1990s also saw the birth of another iconic collection: the Longines DolceVita. Introduced in 1997, DolceVita pays homage to the Italian Dolce Vita, drawing inspiration from the rectangular Art Deco watches of the 1920s and 1930s. The elongated rectangular case, the retro details, and the name itself evoke a sense of timeless glamour, evoking the atmosphere of Fellini's Rome and the movie stars of yesteryear. With DolceVita, Longines reaffirms its commitment to formal elegance, interpreted in a contemporary way for a young and cosmopolitan audience.

The Longines heritage and the philosophy of the brand

As we enter the new millennium, Longines has built up a legacy of history, expertise, and style that few other brands can match. In a world that looks to the future, Longines chooses to leverage its past as a source of inspiration for its modern collections. In 2005, the brand launched The Longines Master Collection, a line composed entirely of mechanical watches that celebrate classic fine watchmaking. With its guilloché dials, traditional complications (moon phases, calendars, chronographs), and transparent case backs, the Master Collection represents a true tribute to Longines' watchmaking tradition, drawing attention to the fine finishes and mechanical hearts beating within the cases. This choice—offering only mechanical movements at a time when quartz dominated the mass market—sends a strong message: Longines believes in the timeless values ​​of its art and wants to convey them to new admirers.

In the years that followed, Longines continued to explore its heritage. Historic models were reissued in updated versions as part of a series of commemorative collections. For example, the Heritage Military line revived charming military watches from the 1940s; the Heritage Classic revisited clean designs from the 1930s with off-center small seconds; the Heritage Avigation evoked aviator watches (including remakes of the Lindbergh and Weems); and the Heritage Diver revived diving models such as the aforementioned Legend Diver and the 1969 Super Compressor. These nostalgic ventures were not simple replicas: Longines succeeded in the arduous task of preserving the vintage feel while adapting it to today's quality standards (modern automatic movements, sapphire crystal, high-performance materials). Enthusiasts appreciated them, and the brand grew even stronger, serving as a bridge between generations of watch lovers.

At the same time, Longines is always looking ahead. In 2020 —a particularly challenging year globally—the brand is launching the new Longines Spirit collection. These watches, aesthetically inspired by the pilot's watches of the golden age of aviation, are dedicated to the pioneering spirit of figures such as Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, and Howard Hughes, all aviators who in the past relied on Longines for their exploits. The Spirit collection reinterprets vintage elements (such as large luminescent Arabic numerals, "cathedral" hands, and the historic logo) in a contemporary key, while offering precision chronometric certifications and modern technical standards. The message is clear: tradition and innovation fly together, today as they did yesterday.

Today, Longines remains firmly faithful to its DNA, encapsulated in the famous motto “Elegance is an attitude.” Elegance has always been at the heart of the Longines identity: not an ephemeral or superficial elegance, but an attitude, a way of conceiving a watch as an object that transcends fashion. Leafing through a current catalogue, we find the distinctive traits whose origins we have traced in this story. There is the Conquest collection, evolved into a modern sports line (including the HydroConquest diving variant) but still synonymous with performance; there is the Flagship, a symbol of classic style for over 60 years; there are refined creations such as DolceVita and PrimaLuna, dedicated to those who love discreet luxury; there is the Master Collection, a stronghold of traditional mechanics; and there is the Heritage series, which is enriched every year with dream re-editions for collectors. Each watch carries within it a fragment of history and at the same time lives in the present, designed for the wrist of those – men or women – who appreciate that unmistakable mix of Tradition, Performance and Elegance on which Longines has built its reputation. .

In nearly two centuries of business, Longines has weathered industrial revolutions, world wars, economic crises, and changing tastes, always emerging stronger thanks to the solidity of its values. Today, the winged hourglass brand, part of the Swatch Group, is present in over 150 countries and continues to measure the time of major sporting events and special moments for millions of people. And while innovation continues—with silicon movements, chronometric certifications, and ever-evolving designs—Longines remains the guardian of its illustrious heritage. The history of the Longines brand is not just about dates or watches, but a philosophy passed down from generation to generation: the belief that "elegance is an attitude" and that precision, innovation, and style can harmoniously coexist in every creation. This combination of ancient heart and forward-looking vision is the secret that still makes the unmistakable tick of a Longines watch on our wrist today—a small, eternal fragment of watchmaking history.

credits: longines.com - Wikipedia - swatchgroup.com