Lucien Rochat: A Timeless Tale in World Watchmaking

The origins in the 18th century: from automatons to the first gears

The story of Lucien Rochat has its roots in the second half of the 18th century, in a small workshop where the magic of mechanics was taking its first steps. It all began around 1700, when Lucien's great-great-grandfather found employment in the workshop of a famous maker of automatons —those marvelous precursors of modern robots—dedicating himself to designing the delicate mechanisms that animated clocks and mechanical figures. Upon the owner's death, this Rochat ancestor inherited the workshop, thus laying the foundations of a craft tradition destined to last centuries. The Rochat family continued the business for generations, guarding and refining the secrets of watchmaking . By the 19th century, the family workshop was already renowned for the construction of increasingly smaller and more complex mechanisms, a challenge that required patience, ingenuity, and an obsessive attention to detail. This passion for excellent micromechanics was the seed from which the legend of Lucien Rochat sprouted.

Interestingly, the Rochat family's origins in the land of watches date back far in time. Some historical sources claim that the Rochats settled in the Vallée de Joux —the Swiss cradle of watchmaking—as early as 1480, migrating from neighboring France. In those distant centuries, the Rochats were humble farmers and lumberjacks , but not just any farmers: they crafted the prized wood of the Risoud forest, renowned for crafting violins and guitars of the highest quality. This anecdote reveals a fascinating connection between violin making and watchmaking: the same resonant wood used for musical instruments passed through the hands of the Rochats before finding a new voice in the soundboards, while over time those same hands would learn to carve gears and cogs. Living between Lausanne and Neuchâtel, in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking tradition, it was almost natural for the family to transform their manual skill into watchmaking. From simple farmers and woodworkers, the Rochats discovered they possessed a rare talent: master watchmakers . Their great-great-grandfather's automaton workshop was thus the first chapter in a family saga destined to enter the firmament of watchmaking.

From the Vallée de Joux to the birth of the Rochat atelier (1900-1925)

At the dawn of the 20th century, the Rochat family took a decisive step towards their future: in 1900, they moved permanently to the Vallée de Joux , between Lausanne and Neuchâtel, Switzerland's most renowned region for watchmaking. Here, they breathed the crisp Jura air, filled with the echoes of clocks and world-famous complications. Immersed in this vibrant environment, the Rochats began to experiment with crafting handcrafted watch mechanisms, capitalizing on the experience accumulated over generations of precision work. The move to the Vallée de Joux—a true "world temple of watchmaking" in French-speaking Switzerland—was the spark that gave birth to the Maison Rochat as we know it.

In 1925 , the Rochat family's watchmaking art was officially recognized. Emil Rochat , Lucien's grandfather, opened the first Rochat watchmaking workshop that year, fulfilling his ancestors' dream. In that workshop in Le Brassus (a symbolic location in the Vallée de Joux), Compliqué was born, the first mechanical chronograph to bear the Rochat name. It was an innovative timepiece for its time, and its very name betrayed its ambition: Compliqué alluded to horological complications, those functions additional to the simple display of the time, which so fascinated enthusiasts. The Rochat workshop immediately made a name for itself thanks to the exceptional quality of its creations, the fruit of painstaking craftsmanship and the use of precious materials – characteristics that would remain distinctive features of the brand for decades. The small workshop had become the stage on which a family of three generations of master watchmakers passed down ancient knowledge, honed from father to son. But the path of this timeless tale would not be without obstacles: fate had difficult trials and challenges in store, from which the Rochats would emerge each time stronger and more determined.

Between flames and rebirth: the challenges of the 20th century

The 1940s brought tumultuous times for the Rochat family. In 1942, a sudden disaster threatened to shatter the thread of tradition: a fire broke out in the workshop, devastating the fruit of years of work. In the midst of World War II, it seemed for a moment that a silent enemy—fire—could do what even wars had failed to accomplish: silence the delicate tickings echoing through the atelier. But the Rochats did not give up. Ernest Rochat , Emil's son, collected the ashes (literally and figuratively) from the blaze and led the reconstruction. The family moved the workshop to Geneva, a city symbolic of fine watchmaking, inaugurating a new studio far from the rubble. Shortly thereafter, the headquarters found its permanent home in Yverdon-les-Bains , also in Switzerland, where the artisanal atelier effectively transformed into a small watch factory . It was the end of a family era and the beginning of an entrepreneurial adventure: the Rochats' tenacity had transformed a calamity into an opportunity for growth. The new factory laid the foundations for modernizing production, without betraying the artisanal spirit inherited from their ancestors.

The years passed, and a new protagonist prepared to write the next chapter of the saga. Thus we arrive at 1972 : that year, Lucien Rochat – Emil's grandson and Ernest's son – succeeded his father, taking the reins of the company. With Lucien at the helm, something emblematic happened: the "Lucien Rochat" brand was officially born, which from that moment on identified the company's production. Giving the brand his own name was a symbolic and responsible act: Lucien intended to project the company into the future, strong in its family heritage but with a clearly defined personality. His vision combined respect for tradition with a desire for innovation and international growth. It is no coincidence that under his leadership, the factory made a further leap in organizational quality: in 1981, the factory became a fully-fledged company , and the production site was moved to Grandson , in French-speaking Switzerland. This move marked the beginning of the brand's modern history, a phase in which the small artisan business consolidated itself as a watchmaking industry while keeping the family DNA intact.

The Golden Years: Innovation, Luxury, and Exceptional Brand Ambassadors (1982-1995)

With the move to Grandson, a period of great creative ferment and commercial success began for Lucien Rochat. Between 1982 and 1995, the brand established itself as one of the most important names in Swiss watchmaking tradition, carving out a place of honor alongside far more renowned names. The first luxury chronographs under the Lucien Rochat brand were launched, authentic masterpieces of craftsmanship crafted from precious materials (steel and gold, alligator, mother-of-pearl) and featuring captivating complications such as moon phases and a central calendar. Iconic collections such as the Kron line and the Ro.Sub series went into production, introducing advanced technical solutions such as GMT functions and complete calendars on standard watches, a blend of sportiness and complication that anticipated the trends of the years to come. During those years, the company also invested heavily in marketing and communications, determined to make its name known to a wider audience.

And so, thanks to this strategy, the Lucien Rochat brand established a network of highly prestigious ambassadors, especially in Italy, cementing an image of luxury and exclusivity. In the 1980s and 1990s, its campaigns featured famous faces such as football champion Paolo Maldini , iconic Italian cinema actors such as Vittorio Gassman , Marcello Mastroianni , and Ugo Tognazzi , as well as prominent figures such as Francesca Lavazza (heir to the eponymous coffee family). Each of them embodied, in their own way, the elegance and distinctive personality that Lucien Rochat watches sought to represent. The slogan attributed to Lucien Rochat at the time was emblematic: "Personality is not inherited through a name, but is affirmed through choices." These words encapsulate the spirit of the brand: it's not enough to bear a prestigious surname, but you need to demonstrate your worth through courageous choices and excellent products.

Lucien Rochat watches of that period were incredibly luxurious, crafted without compromise. A telling anecdote highlights the brand's premium positioning: in 1998, a steel/gold Lucien Rochat Royal Sub chronograph sold for around 3.9 million lire, comparable to a Rolex Explorer of the time. For a few hundred thousand lire more, one could even afford a Rolex Submariner. This comparison—reported by enthusiasts of the time—aptly conveys the ambitious nature of Lucien Rochat's offering: state-of-the-art watches with top-quality Swiss mechanical movements, aimed at a discerning clientele willing to invest in something different from the usual brands. However, such a premium positioning would soon come at a cost in terms of commercial sustainability. By the mid-1990s, the luxury watch market was changing: competition from major historic brands and the emergence of new players were making it difficult for a niche company to continue expanding. For Lucien Rochat, a crucial turning point was approaching, one in which important decisions would have to be made to ensure the brand's future.

From difficulties to recovery: the turning point of the new millennium

In the late 1990s, due to fierce competition and the high costs of high-end artisanal production, Lucien Rochat faced several challenges. The extraordinary quality of its timepieces—the brand's true pride—translated into prices that were uncompetitive compared to more established Swiss giants, as seen in the comparison with Rolex. The risk of being crushed by the industry's giants became real. The turning point in the Maison's history came in 2006 , when the Morellato Group decided to acquire the Lucien Rochat brand. Morellato, a leading Italian jewelry and watchmaking group, was known for having already acquired and relaunched other historic brands. The operation marked the beginning of a carefully planned relaunch : on the one hand, preserving the prestige and legacy of Lucien Rochat, on the other, adapting production to the changing times. The new ownership implemented a strategy aimed at strengthening the brand's core values —refinement, timeless elegance, and a rediscovery of tradition—but interpreting them in a more modern and accessible way. The collection was updated in style, favoring understated, clean, and essential lines, characteristics of contemporary taste that would also appeal to younger generations.

Behind the scenes, however, a significant change occurred compared to the past: the new watches produced under the Morellato umbrella moved away from the level of complication and cost of previous production. To reach a wider audience, most models adopted precise and affordable quartz movements, with only a few models featuring automatic calibers (some of Seiko origin). Prices, as a result, were also much lower than in the past. In other words, Lucien Rochat transformed from an exclusive niche brand into a mid-to-high-end brand, offering elegant and refined yet affordable watches. This move, while on the one hand, put off purists nostalgic for 1980s chronographs, on the other, allowed the Lucien Rochat name to live on and share its history with a new clientele around the world. After all, Lucien Rochat himself never stopped dedicating himself to watchmaking, even after passing the baton: his technical and philosophical legacy continues both in the Swiss laboratories and in the new collections distributed globally.

Lucien Rochat Today: A Tradition Renewed in the 21st Century

Today, Lucien Rochat is a name that unites past and present, tradition and modernity. Nearly a century after Emil Rochat founded his first workshop, the brand continues to be synonymous with timeless elegance , albeit with a new face. The contemporary collections – intended for both men and women – draw inspiration from the Maison's rich historical heritage, reinterpreting it according to current trends. This translates into watches that combine vintage design and retro details with contemporary materials and lines, in a perfect balance between heritage and innovation. For example, there are models that celebrate classic complications (such as moon phases or skeletonized movements) but present them in modern case diameters and straps in contemporary colors. The brand's philosophy remains focused on refinement: every Lucien Rochat watch today reflects attention to detail and high-quality construction , while never reaching the luxurious excesses of its golden age.

A significant event punctuates the Maison's present: 2025 marks the centenary of the opening of the first Rochat atelier in 1925, a momentous milestone that the house wanted to celebrate in grand style. For the occasion, a celebratory limited-edition model was created, called the Iconic 100 Ans , produced in 1,925 numbered pieces – a number chosen not coincidentally, in memory of the year of founding. This anniversary watch boasts a skeletonized automatic movement and high-quality details, combining technology and elegance in a tribute to the brand's century-long history. As the company itself emphasizes, it is not just a simple timepiece, but an icon intended for those seeking excellence and uniqueness to wear every day . The Iconic 100 Ans therefore represents the common thread that ideally connects Emil, Ernest, Lucien and all the generations of artisans and designers who have contributed to making Lucien Rochat what it is: a living brand, capable of renewing itself while remaining true to itself. And who knows how many more pages of this timeless tale remain to be written, one tick after another, in the hearts of watch lovers.

Historical models and curiosities of the Maison Rochat

• Oignon Grande Complication – A vintage automatic chronograph featuring an original movement from the 1940s. The mechanism, composed of no fewer than 283 hand-finished and assembled parts, is housed in a solid 18-karat gold case and paired with a genuine crocodile strap. The name “Oignon” (onion) affectionately recalls the rounded shapes of antique pocket watches, while the wording “Grande Complication” highlights the technical complexity inherent in this masterpiece.
• Royal Air Force 42 – A sporty, yet classic, automatic mechanical watch featuring a triple chronograph , a complete calendar, and moon phases integrated into the dial. Protected by sapphire crystal and water-resistant to 100 meters, it boasts a genuine mother-of-pearl dial (available in white or black) and a double crocodile strap with a gold buckle. This model was so successful among connoisseurs and opinion leaders that Lucien Rochat also decided to create an 18k gold case version to satisfy the most discerning customers.
• Noblesse – An automatic watch of the highest class, considered almost a jewel for its elegance. It houses a mechanical movement of the highest quality and precision and was also offered in a “Perpetuelle” version with a perpetual calendar programmed until the year 2070. The 18-karat gold case and natural crocodile leather strap complete the ensemble, while the women's version was available with a solid gold bracelet.
• Soleil – Perhaps the most personal and rare model, a testament to Lucien Rochat's love for his creations. Each piece features a hand-engraved case and caseback with unique motifs, a genuine mother-of-pearl dial with applied gold indexes. The mechanical movement inside is ultra-thin, the thinnest in the world at the time, a testament to the brand's technical mastery. Sapphire crystal, a gold buckle, and a fine leather strap complete this exclusive timepiece, produced in limited numbers and now virtually impossible to find.
• Clermont – Inspired by the Art Deco style, the Clermont is a watch crafted from 18k rose gold, available in both men's and women's versions. It houses a high-end automatic movement measuring just 3.20 millimeters thick, a remarkable feat of miniaturization, and features a date display. Despite its vintage elegance, it offers modern features such as sapphire crystal and a water-resistant case, combining retro aesthetics with contemporary functionality.
• Rattrapant – A manual split- seconds chronograph, featuring a double second hand superimposed on the dial. This mechanism allows for measuring intermediate times: one hand can be stopped with a dedicated button while the other continues to run, then "catch up" again. Lucien Rochat created this piece in an extremely limited edition of just 30 unique pieces , each with an 18-karat gold case and crocodile leather strap. It is one of the Maison's rarest and most coveted watches, a true feat of technical virtuosity reserved for a few fortunate collectors.

Credits: www.lucienrochat.it - ​​www.morellato.com - Wikipedia